Spice Bazaar

Today was our first day without any defined touring or activities, and I have to say that in a way, I was glad.  After going hard at it all week, my body needed a little rest and relaxation.  Surprisingly enough, I skipped breakfast today and slept in until about 9:30 am.  After getting ready, five of us decided to trek over the bridge to the Galata Tower and Taksim Square.

On the way, we got lost in a non-English speaking section of Istanbul and traversed a hill that would make Lance Armstrong pant.  When we finally reached Ishkatil Caddesi, the modern shopping district in Istanbul, we were glad to see familiar stores like Puma, Nike, and Lacoste.  Upon reaching the square, I was surprised to find totally modern buildings and a city that reminded me of Atlanta or New York, very metropolitan and Western.

In the square, there were pigeons everywhere, and I was scammed out of a lire by a gypsy with birdfeed.  She grabbed my arm, poured the seeds into my hand and when I was finished feeding the pigeons, came running after me screaming, “One lire!”  To appease the crazed blue-eyed gypsy trailing me, I shoved a lire into her outstretched hand and quickly moved the other way.

I was hungry after my frightening gypsy experience. My nose led my comrades and me to Pizza Hut.  Yes, I know that since we are in a foreign country, we should avoid American food, but we wanted to conduct a “cultural experiment” to see if the Pizza Huts were alike or different.  Honestly, we just had a craving for something familiar and “known.”  We concluded that the pepperoni pizza was quite similar to that found in America, but the sausage was much more like chopped up hot dog than the Italian sausage we were familiar with in the States.

After lunch, we crossed back over the Galata Bridge and made a group decision to go for round two at the Grand Bazaar. Because we had enjoyed bargaining and jawing with the vendors the day before, the five of us chose to hit the bazaar one more time for last-minute gifts and souvenirs before leaving Istanbul.  Once again, I was astounded by the crowd and the noise, but as a seasoned bargainer (not), I was prepared to state my price and accept nothing in excess.  More than anything, shopping at the Grand Bazaar was a cultural experience one could only find in Turkey.  It was just one more thing I knew I would miss after leaving Istanbul.

Our last night in Istanbul, Dr. Campbell reserved a special dinner for our group at Sarnic Cistern, voted one of Europe’s best restaurants.  Near the Topkapi Palace, Sarnic didn’t look very different from any other restaurant from the outside, but after going through the lobby, the doors opened to a beautiful medieval-era cistern.  As I walked down the stairs, I felt like with every step I was stepping back in time.  The room was lit by candlelight coming from wrought iron candelabras and iron chandeliers.  Similar to the “Sunken Palace,” the Sarnic Cistern had Roman brickwork that masons today strive to imitate.

The meal, Chicken Topkapi, was delicious, but it was overshadowed by the grandeur of the setting.  I felt myself in a constant “pinch-me” state, and I knew that the surreal dinner in Sarnic Cistern was a perfect end to an unbelievable adventure.

Read the first entry: Flying to Istanbul

Read the second entry: Sultanhamet Mosques, the Hoppodrome, and spice bazaars

Read the third entry: chora, Cemberlitas bath, and gypsies

Read the fourth entry: The Haghia Sophia and a lost camera

Read the fifth entry: Whirling Dervishes!

posted by Stacy Dyer '96

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