Blue Mosque at sundown

Days One and Two, Thursday and Friday

After almost a year of anticipation had passed, the day of my trip to Istanbul finally arrived.  The night before my class left for Spring Break 2008 in Istanbul, Turkey, I stayed up until 3 am filling my suitcase to the brim, completing a take-home exam for Middle East and studying for a Finite quiz.  Although I was exhausted from my late night, I could barely contain my excitement as I waited anxiously in my apartment at PC for my parents to drive me to the airport.

When they arrived, I shoved everything I needed in the back of my dad’s car and jumped in mine with Mama to head to Charlotte-Douglas International Airport.  The entire ride there, I spouted off things we were going to do and see in Turkey, particularly excited about seeing the Whirling Dervishes (a mystical Sufi faction) and the city walls that has protected Istanbul from foreign invasion for centuries.

At the airport, I hugged and kissed Mama and Daddy goodbye at the Lufthansa terminal and ran to meet my group waiting to go through customs.  As more and more PC students arrived, my excitement continued to mount.

After weaving our way through the never-ending line at customs, our group congregated at an airport restaurant to flip through travel guides and Turkish language handbooks in preparation for the trip.  To say the least, the atmosphere among all the students was electric.

On the nine hour or so plane ride to Munich, I was so excited I couldn’t eat, couldn’t concentrate on my book for Middle East, Inventing Iraq, and certainly couldn’t sleep.  While many of the other students slept during our lay-over in Munich, I busied myself thinking about all the sights and sounds I was about to experience, although I had no idea what to expect.

After we boarded the plane from Munich to Istanbul, I finally relaxed enough to sleep.  I awoke to the smell of airplane food and looked out my window, only to see the beautiful Alps just below the right wing of the plane.  Still exhausted, I quickly fell asleep again, awakening only after a bit of turbulence as we descended through the clouds, and to my surprise, I not only saw water beneath us but in the distance, Istanbul.  The shimmering blue of the Bosporus Sea drifted into buildings upon buildings and towering minarets that looked as if they would scrape the belly of the plane.  I saw tall skyscrapers next to beautiful ancient mosques, and the breath was literally snatched from my chest.

After touching down, we once again passed through customs (a breeze at Ataturk International Aiport) and waited outside on a median for our bus driver to deliver us to the Hotel Nena.  Cars whizzed by, and I noted the incessant honking that pierced my thoughts before our driver pulled up.    

Passing through the old city walls to my left and right, I could scarcely believe the size of Istanbul, sitting right on the Bosporus and Marmara Seas.  Although Dr. Campbell warned us about the fickle weather in the city, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset as we unpacked and ate dinner in the Hotel Nena’s four floor terrace and rooftop restaurant.

After a dinner of lamb or chicken kebabs, Dr. Campbell took a group of students out to wander the city at night, and I was among those who enjoyed gazing at the minarets of the Blue Mosque and the Haghia Sophia after dark.

Whirling Dervices

Day Three, Saturday

Waking up with a headache from the seven-hour time difference, I shook the jet lag off with a shower and morning coffee on the terrace overlooking the city.  By the weak dawn’s light, I could see from the mosques of the Sultanhamet area, where we were staying, to the Galata Tower and all the way to the Asian side of the city.  Since Istanbul is the only city in the world to span two continents, Europe and Asia, I could see why Dr. Campbell had said that we could only catch a glimpse of the city and its 15 million inhabitants in a week.

The group straggled into the lobby of the hotel after breakfast and prepared for Dr. Campbell’s whirlwind tour of the city.  Our fearless leader took us from the Hippodrome and Blue Mosque area all the way to the Topkapi Palace and waterfront area by the Galata Bridge before leading us through the colorful and pungent Spice Bazaar and back to the hotel.  In the Spice Bazaar, my senses were on overload by with the multitude of people inside and the disorienting array of colors and sounds.  People bumped against me muttering in a language I could not understand (Turkish) and my nostrils were filled with the aroma of paprika, cracked pepper and saffron sitting in neat piles before the vendors’ booths.  When one vendor shoved a plate of candy in front of me, I took a morsel and stole my first true taste of Turkey, Turkish Delight.

Roughly around noon, we broke into smaller groups to find lunch, and my friends and I selected Buhara, a small café just down from the Hippodrome.  There, we ate a sort of flat bread cooked on a brick oven and for our main course, cheese pide, which essentially is Turkish pizza.  It was delicious, and feeling renourished, we trotted back uphill to learn more about the Hippodrome, a place where chariot races had taken place in the time that Istanbul was called Constantinople.

Back in that time, teams named the Blues, Greens, Whites and Reds battled in chariot races while onlookers cheered with the same fervor that Turks feel toward soccer in modern times.  Today, the Hippodrome is actually about six feet underneath the ground, but an obelisk from Egypt stands above ground, pointing to the sky with traditional Egyptian designs.

 After seeing the Hippodrome, we went underground to view the Basilica Cistern, which literally means “Sunken Palace.”  Discovered in the recent past, the cistern at one time housed all the water supply needed for Istanbul, but today, it is simply breathtaking.  Cool, wet, and dark, the Sunken Palace's beauty could never be captured by pictures.  Doric and Corinthian columns supported traditional Roman masonry, and the sheer magnitude of the space was overwhelming.

 After dinner on our own, some of us decided to check out the nightlife of Istanbul in an area called “Backpacker Row,” where European backpackers often frequented the bars and pubs.  We found our own little slice of heaven at a place called Just Bar that, despite its quaint exterior, played PC favorites such as “Sweet Home Alabama” and “Brown-Eyed Girl” at our request.  Who would have ever thought PC students could be doing the South Carolina State Dance, the Shag, in Istanbul, Turkey?

Laura Coker, Lauren Joyce, Lindsey Sink

Day four, Sunday

Rising early once again, I was awakened by the sound of raindrops hitting the cobblestone street outside the Hotel Nena.  Despite the weather, we all boarded a bus to tour the walls of the city.  Weaving in and out of traffic on a huge touring bus, we finally reached the walls, and to be completely honest, I thanked God for a safe arrival.  Riding in a vehicle in Istanbul was frightening, but driving would have been a near-death experience. 

After we viewed the walls, our tour guide led us to a church now commonly known as Chora, which from the outside looked small and common, but on the inside, the tour guide regaled us (in broken English) about the mosaic’s depicting Jesus’ life, the lives of the apostles and the beginning of the Christian church.  Still in mint condition, the mosaics and frescos were unbelievable.  We were all astounded by the craftsmanship and artistry displayed in the mosaics and the frescos.

On our way back to the bus, we walked past the walls, and I encountered my first gypsy (for gypsies and their horses now live in the city walls) who stood beside me as her friendly neighbor gypsy snapped a photo of us together.  Instead of the walls and churches being the main attraction, we had become quite the spectacle.

Our guide took us by another beautiful church on the way back to the hotel, where there were more mosaics and frescos of Jesus.  He pointed out to our group that only in that church would we find a depiction of the naked Jesus.  That afternoon, we decided to be the first to try out the Turkish bath, which we had heard so much about.

Not knowing what to expect, we entered Cemberlitas Bath clueless and came out wide-eyed (but squeaky clean and shiny).  I won’t spoil the surprise for you, but when in Istanbul, a Turkish bath is a must.  It is a “once in a lifetime” experience.

After my bath experience, I was completely relaxed and needed a nap.  We agreed on taking short catnaps before getting ready for dinner and a night on the town.  Hasan, one of our local friends, recommended we dine at Sofa, a local haunt with reasonable prices and good food and then, hit Backpacker Row again for the evening.

Day Five, Monday

Monday morning we went inside the Haghia Sophia, which loomed above much of the city.  The sheer magnitude of the mosque was unbelievable, with dizzying arrays of tiles and patterns on the dome above us.  With our wrapped heads, I know we looked ridiculous, but we showed reverence to the culture.  In all honesty, I think that wearing the pashminas around our heads made us appreciate the experience even more.

After that, my partner and I presented on the Baths of Roxelana, which is now a fair trade carpet shop, but because of filming, we were unable to go inside the baths.  Needless to say, that rained on my parade a little, but I was so excited about going to the Asian side of Istanbul that it didn’t matter.

Although we just went over to Asia for lunch and didn’t really get to explore the area, how many people can say that they’ve been to two continents in a day?  Little did I know, but I would be going over to Asia twice in one day.  As soon as we got to the Asian side, I was snapping pictures, and when we sat down at the restaurant, I sat my camera on the table.

Well, during lunch I became involved in conversation and eating, of course, and when we left the restaurant, I totally forgot that my camera had been on the table.  It wasn’t until we arrived back at the dock on the European side of Istanbul that I realized I’d left my camera in another continent.  Before we toured Topkapi Palace, I ran back up to the hotel and asked the staff to call the restaurant to see if they’d found my camera.

They stated that they had indeed found it, and I planned to pick it up after the tour of the palace.  Although I would have loved to have had my camera at Topkapi because it was so beautiful and extravagant, I was just relieved that my camera was still at the restaurant and hadn’t been stolen or lost.

While at Topkapi Palace, we saw beautiful tiles in the harem and gold basins in the palace baths, but the thing that amazed me the most was the view from the inner courtyard of the palace.  From that courtyard, I could see the entire city, and the expansive view was dizzying.  After touring the palace for nearly three hours, Rob and I hopped back on the ferry and crossed over to the Asian side, sprinting to the restaurant and back to the ferry before it could set sail again.  Once back on solid land, we had to pull a “Mission Impossible” move, running into three lanes of incoming traffic to catch the tram back to the hotel.  I was relieved to be back at the hotel safely when we returned.

Day Six, Tuesday

Tuesday morning dawned beautiful and clear, the perfect day for our scheduled cruise on the Bosporus.  Before hitting the sea, we trudged up the hill to Suleyman’s mosque, which was probably the most beautiful and ornate mosque we saw the entire trip.  After touring the mosque and the tombs around it, we headed back down one of Istanbul’s seven hills to the water.  As we set out from the harbor, we learned about the history of both the European and Asian forts, as well as the Dolmabache Palace, which we would see on our trip. 

Out on the water, the sun gently touched our faces on the top deck of the boat.  Although Istanbul is beautiful from land, it is even more beautiful from the water (if that is imaginable).  I have to say that the cruise on the water was my favorite part of the trip so far.  It is true that every good Carolina girl loves being out on the water.  Not only was the weather perfect and the scenery beautiful, but it gave all of us the opportunity to discuss our favorite moments of the trip and what we would miss most about the city.

When we reached the European fort, we all got out and explored.  Some of us climbed to the top of the fort, while others took pictures with the ancient fort and beautiful water in the background.  On the way back, the breeze picked up, but we still enjoyed being outside in an amazing city with the beautiful weather.

After grabbing a quick lunch, we had the afternoon free, so most of the group decided to explore the Grand Bazaar, a huge maze of vendors in a covered mall (for lack of a better word).  Although the Spice Bazaar was overwhelming, the Grand Bazaar was much larger and more intimidating.  There were vendors everywhere, selling their wares from Evil Eyes to pashminas to rugs.  The best part about the experience was the fun we had bargaining with the different salesmen.

The trick to bargaining is when the vendor tells you an exorbitant price, you counter with an unbelievably low offer, and after arguing for your price, you walk away slowly until they agree to your offer.  Although exhausting, actually getting to interact with the Turkish vendors was a really good time.

That night was what I had been waiting for the entire trip—going to see the Whirling Dervishes.  Although I was disappointed that we would be seeing them in a performance-style setting in Sirkeci train station instead of at a monastery, I was still eagerly awaiting the prayer ritual of the dervishes.  As they shrugged off their outer robes and began to spin to the enchanting music, I found myself mesmerized by their peaceful faces and entrancing dance.

Tired from a few days on the trip, we decided to have a low-key night, so some of us stayed in and rested, while others went to a hookah shop and socialized. 

Day Seven, Wednesday

Today was our first day without any defined touring or activities, and I have to say that in a way, I was glad.  After going hard at it all week, my body needed a little rest and relaxation.  Surprisingly enough, I skipped breakfast today and slept in until about 9:30 am.  After getting ready, five of us decided to trek over the bridge to the Galata Tower and Taksim Square.

On the way, we got lost in a non-English speaking section of Istanbul and traversed a hill that would make Lance Armstrong pant.  When we finally reached Ishkatil Caddesi, the modern shopping district in Istanbul, we were glad to see familiar stores like Puma, Nike, and Lacoste.  Upon reaching the square, I was surprised to find totally modern buildings and a city that reminded me of Atlanta or New York, very metropolitan and Western.

In the square, there were pigeons everywhere, and I was scammed out of a lire by a gypsy with birdfeed.  She grabbed my arm, poured the seeds into my hand and when I was finished feeding the pigeons, came running after me screaming, “One lire!”  To appease the crazed blue-eyed gypsy trailing me, I shoved a lire into her outstretched hand and quickly moved the other way.

I was hungry after my frightening gypsy experience. My nose led my comrades and me to Pizza Hut.  Yes, I know that since we are in a foreign country, we should avoid American food, but we wanted to conduct a “cultural experiment” to see if the Pizza Huts were alike or different.  Honestly, we just had a craving for something familiar and “known.”  We concluded that the pepperoni pizza was quite similar to that found in America, but the sausage was much more like chopped up hot dog than the Italian sausage we were familiar with in the States.

After lunch, we crossed back over the Galata Bridge and made a group decision to go for round two at the Grand Bazaar. Because we had enjoyed bargaining and jawing with the vendors the day before, the five of us chose to hit the bazaar one more time for last-minute gifts and souvenirs before leaving Istanbul.  Once again, I was astounded by the crowd and the noise, but as a seasoned bargainer (not), I was prepared to state my price and accept nothing in excess.  More than anything, shopping at the Grand Bazaar was a cultural experience one could only find in Turkey.  It was just one more thing I knew I would miss after leaving Istanbul.

Our last night in Istanbul, Dr. Campbell reserved a special dinner for our group at Sarnic Cistern, voted one of Europe’s best restaurants.  Near the Topkapi Palace, Sarnic didn’t look very different from any other restaurant from the outside, but after going through the lobby, the doors opened to a beautiful, medieval-era cistern.  As I walked down the stairs, I felt like with every step I was stepping back in time.  The room was lit by candlelight coming from wrought iron candelabras and iron chandeliers.  Similar to the “Sunken Palace,” the Sarnic Cistern had Roman brickwork that masons today strive to imitate.

The meal, Chicken Topkapi, was delicious, but it was overshadowed by the grandeur of the setting.  I felt myself in a constant “pinch-me” state, and I knew that the surreal dinner in Sarnic Cistern was a perfect end to an unbelievable adventure.

Day Eight, Thursday

Thursday morning, I awoke at 5 am, running on about two hours of sleep.  I crammed the last of my souvenirs into my suitcase, wrapped my breakables with care and lumbered down the spiral staircase at the Hotel Nena dreading going home.

There was so much of Istanbul that I had not yet seen and done, so much that I still wanted to explore, so many questions I still wanted answered.  Although I had seen so much of the city, I still felt that I had barely scratched the surface of Istanbul.  This city that spans two continents is not one that can be completely uncovered in a week, but one that may take months to truly reveal all of its hidden gems.

The gateway to the Middle East, Istanbul, is a collusion of old world history and new world business with a certain sort of magic mixed in.  In one sense, it is enormous and overwhelming, and yet, it became like my home in just a week.

As the plane took off from Ataturk International Airport, I gazed out the window and saw Istanbul fade into the distance.  When we climbed into the clouds, I made a promise to myself that I would make it back to Istanbul, that I was saying goodbye to the city for now but not forever. As the Turks would say, gule-gule (goodbye).

posted by Stacy Dyer '96

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